Front Bulkhead Mount

First, one makes the metal plates to attach to the front...

From the Inside

Bulkhead mount as seen from inside the car, above the parcel shelf.

Rear Bulkhead Mount

Then make one for the rear, slightly curved to meet the rear bulkhead, and with an eliptical center to take into account the cant as the pole goes through it.

Rhino

Slide your beefy axis through both bulkhead mounting plates.

Welded Rear Support

Weld the pipe to the supporting sheet metal... The original plan was to make a sleeve that would allow us to simply slip the pipe in and out, but this will serve just as well (or better). We will simply cut out the sheet metal, and grind off the welds from the pipe when done.

Fire in the Hole!

When welding, make sure you look, on the other side of what you are welding, for any potentially combustible material. In this case, we had a bunch of newspaper in the boot that we forgot to take out. I'm slightly miffed at myself for not removing this, because we ran the risk of burning down the garage, and my lovely little Smith's tach was right in the middle of the flames... It will require some cleanup.

Boot Shot

Here, you see the boot (with the darned newspaper still inside!), showing the thickness of our center pipe.

Rotisserie Frame

We built our frame out of 2x4 and 4x4 stock, creating a "bed frame" on which to place the shell. Since I don't have a front end to contend with, the long 2x4s being approximately 10" in length are more than long enough to get the job done. We notched the top of the 4x4 to give the sleeve pipe a good place to rest.

The Money Shot

With just two of us, it took a little head-scratching to figure out how to raise the shell high enough to set it on the posts (approximately 4' high!), but we used a welding cart rail to hold one end, one person lifted one end of the shell, while the other positioned the frame under the pipe and prevented the shell from rotating too far (an unnecessary effort, as it turned out, but that was unknown at the time). Then the procedure was repeated at the other end, and we had the shell in position!

Locking Disk

The disk you see in the pic will be used to arrest rotation of the car when it's in position. Holes will be drilled through the plate that will correspond to a hole in the 4x4, through which a peg will be placed to prevent rotation.

Flipping the Car Made Easy

The center of gravity of the car is so close the center axis of the pole, that I would say only about 100lbs. are needed to get the car updside-down. With such a small amount of weight to work against you, two disks (front and rear), both pegged, should be more than adequate to prevent any unexpected rotation...

Free Play

You need about 3' of free space to allow the shell to rotate without hitting anything.

Rotisserie Dimensions

Here are the dimensions of the rotisserie frame. If I were to do this again (and I just might!), I'd save a few bucks and use plywood reinforcement where you see the framing sheets. This would be stronger, and cheaper. Just screw into each board, and away you go! Also, the center pole I used was overkill. It is about 1/4 thick steel, and I think about half that would have done the job just fine... But this was what the scrap yard had at the time, so that's what I used! Cheaper than buying new, that's for sure.