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Materials |
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Here are the materials needed to ensure a good mix of Hardnose Paint (xylene in the background is used to thin the Hardnose, and the IR temperature gun is to ensure that the parts are at least 70 degrees). |
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Booth |
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The sheets are set up to minimize the amount of overspray ending up in the air. I was hoping that reflected paint droplets would land on the flannel and stick. The stand inside the booth was used to hang the parts while painting. All wasted effort! |
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First Coat |
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The subframes have been sitting around in POR's primer for about 9 months so it didn't want to absorb the paint and hold onto it like I'd hoped. A second coat was required after this first one. |
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Rear Sub |
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First coat on the rear subframe. |
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First Coat Block |
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Lots of the original red paint can be seen through the Hardnose, here. A second coat and touch-ups were required to get this coated well. |
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Second Look |
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The other side. |
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Second Coat Front |
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After a second layer, the front Subframe was looking much better. The Hardnose is so glossy when cured, it looks wet! |
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Rear, Second Coat |
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No worries about future rust here! |
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Block |
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The block has its second coat. Once it had cured a bit more, I did some touch-ups, and no more of the original color could be seen. |
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